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    #SuzyPFW: Saint Laurent And The Light Fantastic

    作者:Suzy Menkes 編輯:張一杰 時間:2019年3月04日
    內容來源:VOGUE時尚網  圖片來源:VOGUE國際網站:英國

    文章導讀

    Anthony Vaccarello gave a futuristic tinge to YSL muses past

    敬請期待中文版

    Positive pop and vibrancy: Vaccarello's Saint Laurent A/W19 collection

    Jamie Stoker

    The feet! Discombobulated feet in scarlet high heeled shoes walking the line in front of a glitter fest of twinkling lights. This is Saint Laurent in the digital age.

    Dramatic UV lighting at Saint Laurent.

    Jamie Stoker

    Designer Anthony Vaccarello made a show to remember, a stunning presentation of a famous back history moved into the current period of multiple devices, with constant echoes of the past.

    This Saint Laurent collection was built on the architecture of tailoring

    Gorunway

    There was no Betty Catroux sitting front row, but a look-a-like was up there on stage, with her blonde hair and distinctive blunt fringe, dressed in black, her personal passion.

    The collection was inspired by Chanel model Betty Catroux and Catherine Deneuve

    Gorunway

    And there was Catherine Deneuve in person, fresh from selling up a storm with her YSL wardrobe - featured on the runway with dramatic coat-hanger shoulders on a tailored coat.

    Velvet rompers at Saint Laurent A/W19

    Gorunway

    “The first part of the show was inspired by Betty and Catherine, so I really worked around the architecture of the clothes, so everything starts on the shoulder,” said Vaccarello who literally had the wide shoulder/narrow hips down to a ’T’.

    Dramatic coat-hanger shoulders on a tailored coat at Saint Laurent

    Jamie Stoker

    Just in case the audience, mesmerised by the winking lights, didn’t get the shape, the designer might add an outsize bow at one shoulder or a velvet bodice shaped like a ‘V’.
    “I don’t want to talk about (the) oversized silhouette that everyone is doing - it’s more a structure with a very straight silhouette,” said Vaccarello. "I just wanted to give even more power to women - but she is not a warrior, not mean - just confident.”

    Vaccarello gave a futuristic tinge to YSL muses past

    Gorunway

    This Saint Laurent collection was built on the architecture of tailoring, which could not have been better executed. Brief steps into a wilder side included a crocodile jacket or every designer’s favourite: leopard print.

    Vaccarello spoke about “positive pop and vibrancy” especially with fluorescent lighting that had a glow-in-the-dark effect. A particular concept?

    "The lights came just because we have to do a show - and to do a show you need the lights,” said the designer about the finale in UV.

    “I prefer to do it as decoration,” he continued. “ But there is nothing conceptual about the lighting."

    There were fleeting references to the YSL China and Opium years in the late 70s. And there were some more solid menswear looks, where trousers were never chopped into shorts.

    There were some solid menswear looks

    Gorunway

    But, as ever with the current Saint Laurent shows, you were left in both awe - and wanting more.

    Saint Laurent Autumn/Winter 2019 Ready-To-Wear               

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